Here is my second shawl pattern "Mulberry Wine Shawl". It's a triangular scarf/shawl with a repetitive pattern and almost no ends to weave in :) Mine is made of a wonderful yarn containing baby llama wool and mulberry silk. It is so soft and very nice to wear.
I'm really not a shawl person. I'm wearing mine as a scarf/shawlette instead (you can find an image of me wearing mine further down )but the great thing with this pattern is that you easily can make it as big as you want just by adding some more rows :)
At a first glance the pattern might look very complex but as soon as you have come through the first repetition I'm sure things will move on more smoothly.
I put a lot of work into my patterns so if you use them and share images on social media I would be very happy if you share a link to my blog and tag your work by #intheyarngarden (or #mulberrywineshawl for this shawl). That makes it easier for me to see your creations which I'd love to see :)
MATERIAL
I used almost 4 skeins for my shawl. 1 skein = about 165 m.
Hook: 3,5 mm
Note: I have used another yarn for the tutorial images to make it easier to see the stitches.
Note: I have used another yarn for the tutorial images to make it easier to see the stitches.
| Llama Silk |
ABBREVIATIONS, US CROCHET TERMS
st - stitch
ch - chain
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
top ch - the top ch of the ch-3 made first at previous round
sp - space
** - repeat instructions between ** along the side
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
top ch - the top ch of the ch-3 made first at previous round
sp - space
** - repeat instructions between ** along the side
Add this project to your Ravelry queue.
General information
Start with a magic ring.
(Ch 3, dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the magic ring. (image 1)
ch-3 (image 1), 2 dc in next st (image 2),
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc,
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc (image 1),
*ch 4, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 4 (image 2), sk 2 st's, 5 dc (image 3), ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3 (image 4), sk 2 st's, 5 dc (image 5)* repeat until 6 st's left to corner ch-3,
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc,
*ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4 (image 1), sk 2 st's, 3 dc (image 2), 2 dc each in next 2 ch-3 sp (image 3), 3 dc (image 4)* repeat until 6 st's left to corner ch-3,
Round 13:
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc (image 1),
*2 dc in next ch-4 sp (image 2), ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in ch-4 sp (image 3), dc in each st until ch-4 sp (image 4)* repeat until 8 st's left to corner ch-3,
DESCRIPTION
General information
- To prevent the edge from curling crochet very loose on the first ch 3 on each round or maybe even ch 4 instead.
- Turn your work after each round.
- All rounds (except round 1) of the base pattern starts with a (ch-3, 2 dc) in the first st and ends with 3 dc's in the 3:rd ch of the beginning chain from previous round.
- The larger hole patterns are referred to as "Mulberry pattern"
The pattern is divided into 3 parts: base pattern, edge and upper edge.
BASE PATTERN
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| The base pattern |
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1:
(Ch 3, dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the magic ring. (image 1)
| Round 1 |
Round 2:
ch-3 (image 1), 2 dc in next st (image 2),
dc (image 3), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3 (image 4) , dc,
5 dc (image 2), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3 (image 3), 5 dc,
Round 4: (In this round we start on our first mulberry patterns)
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc,
ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead (image 1), ch 3, sk 2 st's,
3 dc (image 2, only 1:st of 3 dc's in image), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 3 dc,
3 dc (image 2, only 1:st of 3 dc's in image), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 3 dc,
ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3, sk 2 st's,
2 dc (image 3, only 1:st dc in image), 3 dc's in top ch (image 4).
dc in ch-3 sp (image 1), ch 5, dc in ch-3 sp (image 2),
5 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 5 dc,
dc in ch-3 sp, ch 5, dc in ch-3 sp,
5 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 5 dc,
dc in ch-3 sp, ch 5, dc in ch-3 sp,
ch 4, sc in ch-5 sp (image 2), ch 4, sk 2 st's (image 3),
6 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 6 dc,
ch 4, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's,
6 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 6 dc,
ch 4, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's,
ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's (image 2),
6 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3 (image 3), 6 dc,
ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's,
6 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3 (image 3), 6 dc,
ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's,
2 dc in next ch-4 sp (image 1), ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp (image 2), ch 4, 2 dc in next ch-4 sp (image 3),
8 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 8 dc,
2 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in next ch-4 sp,
8 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 8 dc,
2 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in next ch-4 sp,
7 dc , 3 dc's in top ch (image 4).
The repetitive part of the base pattern contains of round 9-13 below!
Instructions inside ** is repeated as many times as needed along the side until you meet the repeat requirement stated afterwards.
!! Note that the repeats ends in the middle of the instructions between ** !!
So this means that the first time you make round 9-13 you will repeat instructions inside ** 1.5 times, the second time you make round 9-13 you will repeat them 2.5 times, etc...
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc,
*ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3 (image 1), sk 2 st's, 5 dc, 3 dc in next ch-4 sp (image 2), 3 dc in next ch-4 sp , 5 dc*
| Round 8 |
The repetitive part of the base pattern contains of round 9-13 below!
Instructions inside ** is repeated as many times as needed along the side until you meet the repeat requirement stated afterwards.
!! Note that the repeats ends in the middle of the instructions between ** !!
So this means that the first time you make round 9-13 you will repeat instructions inside ** 1.5 times, the second time you make round 9-13 you will repeat them 2.5 times, etc...
Round 9: In this round we start new mulberry patterns and finish the old ones.
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc,
*ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3 (image 1), sk 2 st's, 5 dc, 3 dc in next ch-4 sp (image 2), 3 dc in next ch-4 sp , 5 dc*
repeat until 3 st's left to corner ch-3,
3 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3 (image 3), 3 dc,
*ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3, sk 2 st's, 5 dc, 3 dc each in next 2 ch-4 sp, 5 dc*
*ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3, sk 2 st's, 5 dc, 3 dc each in next 2 ch-4 sp, 5 dc*
repeat until 3 st's left, 2 dc, 3 dc's in top ch (image 4).
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc,
*dc in ch-3 sp, ch 5, dc in ch-3 sp (image 1), dc in each st until next ch-3 sp (image 2)*
repeat until 5 st's left to corner ch-3,
| Round 9 |
Round 10:
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc,
*dc in ch-3 sp, ch 5, dc in ch-3 sp (image 1), dc in each st until next ch-3 sp (image 2)*
repeat until 5 st's left to corner ch-3,
5 dc (image 3), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 5 dc,
*dc in ch-3 sp, ch 5, dc in ch-3 sp, dc in each st until next ch-3 sp*
repeat until 5 st's left, 4 dc, 3 dc's in top ch (image 4).
Hint: There should be 18 dc's in between the mulberry patterns on this round, count them as you go to check that you got it right. I had to frog several times until I started counting :)
repeat until 5 st's left, 4 dc, 3 dc's in top ch (image 4).
Hint: There should be 18 dc's in between the mulberry patterns on this round, count them as you go to check that you got it right. I had to frog several times until I started counting :)
| Round 10 |
Round 11: In this round we make the small hole patterns in between the mulberry patterns
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc (image 1),
*ch 4, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 4 (image 2), sk 2 st's, 5 dc (image 3), ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3 (image 4), sk 2 st's, 5 dc (image 5)* repeat until 6 st's left to corner ch-3,
6 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 6 dc,
*ch 4, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's, 5 dc, ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3, 5 dc*
repeat until 6 st's left, 5 dc, 3 dc's in top ch (image 6).
*ch 4, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's, 5 dc, ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3, 5 dc*
repeat until 6 st's left, 5 dc, 3 dc's in top ch (image 6).
| Round 11 |
Round 12:
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc,
*ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4 (image 1), sk 2 st's, 3 dc (image 2), 2 dc each in next 2 ch-3 sp (image 3), 3 dc (image 4)* repeat until 6 st's left to corner ch-3,
6 dc (image 5), (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 6 dc,
*ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's, 3 dc, 2 dc each in next 2 ch-3 sp, 3 dc*
repeat until 6 st's left, 5 dc, 3 dc's in top ch (image 6).
*ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, sk 2 st's, 3 dc, 2 dc each in next 2 ch-3 sp, 3 dc*
repeat until 6 st's left, 5 dc, 3 dc's in top ch (image 6).
| Round 12 |
Round 13:
ch-3, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc (image 1),
*2 dc in next ch-4 sp (image 2), ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in ch-4 sp (image 3), dc in each st until ch-4 sp (image 4)* repeat until 8 st's left to corner ch-3,
8 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-3, 8 dc,
*2 dc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in ch-4 sp, dc in each st until ch-4 sp*
repeat until 8 st's left, 7 dc, 3 dc's in top ch.
Repeat round 9-13 as many times as you want and finish off the base pattern by making one last round 9.
On the last repeat of round 9 you should skip the start of new mulberry patterns (i.e the (ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3)) and just make dc's there instead.
Let's go on with the edge!
*2 dc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in ch-4 sp, dc in each st until ch-4 sp*
repeat until 8 st's left, 7 dc, 3 dc's in top ch.
| Round 13 |
Repeat round 9-13 as many times as you want and finish off the base pattern by making one last round 9.
On the last repeat of round 9 you should skip the start of new mulberry patterns (i.e the (ch 3, sc between st 2 and 3 ahead, ch 3)) and just make dc's there instead.
Let's go on with the edge!
EDGE
Round 1: One round of dc's
Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, dc in each st until corner ch-3 sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch-3 space, dc in each st until 1 st's left, 3 dc's in top ch.
![]() |
| Round 1 |
Round 2:
Ch 4, dc in next st (image 1),
*ch 1, sk 1 st, dc* repeat until a dc is made in the second st before the corner ch-3 sp (image 2),
ch 1, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch-3 space (image 3),
*ch 1, sk 1 st, dc* repeat until a dc was made in the second st before the last st (ch-3),
(dc, ch 1, dc) in top ch (image 4).
Ch 6 (image 1), sc in next ch-1 sp (image 2),
*ch 5, sc in the second next ch-1 sp (image 3)* repeat until a sc was made in the 2:nd ch-1 before corner ch-3 sp,
ch 5 (image 4), sc in the second dc made in the corner ch-3 on previous round (image 5), (dc, ch 3, dc) in the ch-3 space, sc in next st (image 6),
*ch 5, sc in the second next ch-1 sp* repeat until a sc was made in the last ch-1 st before the last st (ch-3) (image 7),
(ch 3, dc) in the top ch (image 8).
*ch 1, sk 1 st, dc* repeat until a dc is made in the second st before the corner ch-3 sp (image 2),
ch 1, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch-3 space (image 3),
*ch 1, sk 1 st, dc* repeat until a dc was made in the second st before the last st (ch-3),
(dc, ch 1, dc) in top ch (image 4).
| Round 2 |
Round 3:
Ch 6 (image 1), sc in next ch-1 sp (image 2),
*ch 5, sc in the second next ch-1 sp (image 3)* repeat until a sc was made in the 2:nd ch-1 before corner ch-3 sp,
ch 5 (image 4), sc in the second dc made in the corner ch-3 on previous round (image 5), (dc, ch 3, dc) in the ch-3 space, sc in next st (image 6),
*ch 5, sc in the second next ch-1 sp* repeat until a sc was made in the last ch-1 st before the last st (ch-3) (image 7),
(ch 3, dc) in the top ch (image 8).
![]() |
| Round 3 |
Round 4:
Ch 6, sc in next ch-3 sp (image 1),
*ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp* repeat until a sc was made in the last ch-5 before the corner ch-3 sp (image 2),
ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in the ch-3 space (image 3),
*ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp* repeat until your sc was made in the last ch-6 sp,
(ch 3, dc) in the top ch (image 4).
*ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp* repeat until a sc was made in the last ch-5 before the corner ch-3 sp (image 2),
ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in the ch-3 space (image 3),
*ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp* repeat until your sc was made in the last ch-6 sp,
(ch 3, dc) in the top ch (image 4).
| Round 4 |
Round 5:
Depending on how many times you repeated the base pattern you could end up with 2 different solutions on this round. If you'll get an extra ch-5 left before the corner ch-3 make 4 dc's in it and also 4 dc's in the first ch-5 after the corner ch-3 sp.
(sc (image 1), 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in first ch-5 sp (image 2),
* sc in next ch-5 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-5 sp (image 3)* repeat until a sc was made in the last ch-5 before the corner ch-3 sp,
(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the ch-3 space (image 4),
* sc in next ch-5 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-5 sp* repeat until the last but one 5-lmb,
sc in last ch-5 sp (image 5).
* sc in next ch-5 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-5 sp (image 3)* repeat until a sc was made in the last ch-5 before the corner ch-3 sp,
(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the ch-3 space (image 4),
* sc in next ch-5 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-5 sp* repeat until the last but one 5-lmb,
sc in last ch-5 sp (image 5).
![]() |
| Round 5 |
Upper edge
I have added some extra rows along the upper edge to make it prettier and more comfy against the neck.
Round 1: Do not turn your work for this round!!
ch 7, 3 hdc in next ch-3 sp (image 1), make 2 hdc for each round along the upper edge (image 2), 3 hdc's in last ch-3 sp (image 3), ch 4, dc in first st from last round of edge (image 4).
| Round 1 |
Round 2: Turn your work! Work this round in front loop only (FLO)!!
4 hdc in ch-4 sp (image 1), make 1 hdc in each st along (FLO) (image 2 & 3),
4 hdc's in last ch-4 sp (image 4).
4 hdc's in last ch-4 sp (image 4).
Round 3: Turn your work!
If you've got questions, or find any errors in this pattern, please tell me!
It would be very nice to see your shawls , so please tag images with #intheyarngarden , #mulberrywineshawl or feel free to leave a comment with a link to your picture. :)
Happy crocheting!
© Copyright In the Yarn Garden 2016. All rights reserved.
Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents in any form is prohibited without permission from In the Yarn Garden.
You are though very welcome to link to this site. You can sell items made from this pattern, please credit In the Yarn Garden as designer.
You are though very welcome to link to this site. You can sell items made from this pattern, please credit In the Yarn Garden as designer.





Can you tell me how much meters you used for the wine shawl?
ReplyDeleteSorry I missed that! I have updated the material section with information about how many skeins I used and how many meters that equals :)
DeleteHave a great day! :)
Thank you ! I realy love the pattern !!
DeleteThank you very much ! This shawl is so beautiful !
ReplyDeleteThank you! I'm happy to hear that you like it :)
DeleteSo pretty! I really like the pattern! I pinned it :)
ReplyDeleteGreetings, Inge
I really love this pattern and would love to make this shawl! I was wondering how many repeats of the basic pattern you made, so I can work out the amount of yarn I need for this. Can't wait to get started with this :) Thanks so much for sharing!
ReplyDeleteI''m so happy to hear that you like the pattern :) I have 9 rows of the mulberry pattern on my shawl so that equals 8 repetitions of round 9-13. I hope this helps! Have a great day!
DeleteHello! I have just finished my shawl and I absolutely love it :) Thank you again for sharing!
DeleteOh lovely! I'm so happy to hear that :)
DeleteHi, I really admire this shawl and I can't wait to make one myself but I can't help thinking the pattern is upside down :o I know you call it a mulberry pattern but I see it as a bunch of grapes (as suggested when I first read the name Wine shawl) and I would love to turn the pattern but I'm not sure how. Can I just substitute the different rounds or do you have an idea on how? I would love to own a wine shawl as I very much enjoy a glass once in a while ;)
ReplyDelete:) A wine shawl sounds great! It's probably not too hard to adjust the pattern to become upside down. Unfortunately I do not have the time at the moment to adjust it for you :/ My brain started to think a bit about this though, so if I come up with something I'll reply again:)
DeleteI'm having a hard time figuring out how to start round 5 of the edge. I don't know why I am so dense tonight as I've not had ant problems with the rest of the directions. And help you can give would be appreciated.
ReplyDeleteOh my gosh, I finally figured it out. Always works that way, you ask for help and then it dawns on you what to do. And I do love this pattern.
DeleteGreat to hear that you figured it out yourself! :) And lovely to hear that you like the pattern :)
DeleteBeautiful...!!!
ReplyDeleteLove the scarf pattern especially the color, I would like to make one in light cream if I could. Thank you very much.will try.
ReplyDeleteWould like to use this pattern incorporated into a long vest. Is there a way to square it off, once I get to the measurement I need?
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteI'm not completely sure what you are asking for here. The pattern could of course be used for a square. Make (Ch 3, dc, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc , ch 3 , 2dc, ch 3) sl st to top of first ch-3 in the magic ring instead to make it get 4 sides. Then you can work the pattern around. Ch-3 in corners. Hope that helps.
Cheers, Charlotta